Sunday, November 27, 2011

Fashion History Dolls 2

The next 10 Dolls:
1791: Martial & Armand. "Martial & Armand, a long-standing and reliable, if minor part of Paris couture designed this dress after an engraving by Boilly. Léopold Boilly (1761-1845) was a French genre painter and engraver, known for his depictions of Parisian life and culture."


1800: Raphael. "The doll by Raphaël represents the Merveilleuse style of the early 19th century. The Merveilleuse were the female counterpoint to the Incroyables, royalist sympathizers noted for their exaggerated style à la Grecque and anti-revolutionary ideals. Thérésa Tallien was at the forefront of this movement, becoming a fashion leader, along with Josephine de Beauharnais, of the French Directory. Tallien's personal style was the model for the age. She famously arrived at the Paris Opera once wearing a sleeveless silk dress with no underwear. Though the masses did not adopt the extremity of Madame Tallien's style, the paper-thin gowns with flesh-colored knitted undergarments were surely in imitation of 
her daring."

1808: Madame Gres. "The 1808 gown is an interpretation of the style à la Grecque as worn by Empress Josephine, the main fashion originator of the period along with Thérésa Tallien. The design is taken from one made by Leroy, couturier to the Empress. Hippolyte Leroy was the tailor to Empress Josephine responsible for creating the empire gowns she was famous for. This version of the gown was appropriately created by Madame Grès, famous for her love of the Grecian style and draping techniques."






1832: Marcelle Dormoy. "Marcelle Dormoy's creation for the Gratitude Train was designed after a dress by Mlle. Palmyre, whose salon served the ruling class, including Queen Marie-Amélie and Empress Eugénie. The quality of construction is particularly fine and evident in the pantaloons of this doll"





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